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The North Korea-United States Summit Viewed from Pyongyang: Part 2

June 21, 2018 by Tongil Tours

By Alek Sigley, postgraduate student at Kim Il Sung University

It’s been over a week since the historic Singapore summit between the leaders of North Korea and the United States of America. As a short follow-up to the last post I’d like to share some further thoughts and impressions in relation to the meeting that have come to me since publishing the previous post.

On Thursday last week (the 14th of June) I came back to my room in the Kim Il Sung University Foreign Student Dormitory rather late after visiting a friend in the diplomatic compound. I had ridden my bicycle to East Pyongyang and back and on the way there, it rained heavily. I had a set of rain clothes but used the pants to cover my backpack which I placed in the bicycle’s basket, so I ended up soaked! After visiting my friend and attending to some business I came back at around 6pm. The streets were full of people on the way home from work or school, and crossing the Taedong River over Chongryu Bridge took quite some time because I had to weave through crowds of university students, office workers, and middle school students who had finished practice for the upcoming mass games. I hurried, wanting to get home as soon as possible to have a nice warm shower and change out of my rain soaked clothes.

When I got back and changed I felt instant relief. At that moment my roommate, a local Korean student at Kim Il Sung University in his early 20s who was completing the fifth and last year of his undergraduate degree in English, rushed in, and frantically adjusted the television antennae he had set up in our room. A documentary about the summit which had taken place two days earlier would be shown. The day before (the 13th), first news of the summit had come out in the domestic media, but this had been limited to a text article and a few pictures in the newspapers, and a report in the television news which had consisted of three newsreaders speaking in sequence to the camera. This would be the first time that actual video footage would be shown.

Victor, the French student who lives in the room next door wandered in and the three of us watched the television with keen interest. The scenes of Singapore were striking. Streets lined with people all with their smartphones raised, images of Dolce and Gabanna and other luxury stores that Kim Jong Un’s motorcade passed, the Merlion statue with Singapore’s glistening skyscrapers and impressive skyline in the background, and the tourist attractions which North Korea’s leader visited—it was somewhat surreal seeing this on Korea Central Television (KCTV), which usually featured documentaries about factory inspections and the latest in drill technology. Indeed, the Rodong Sinmun (organ of the Korean Worker’s Party and North Korea’s most prominent newspaper) article from the 12th, which reported on the North Korean leader’s visit to Singapore and featured impressive images of the city’s development, directly referenced Singapore’s “economic potential and development” (경제적잠재려과 발전상), which the leader viewed (싱가포르 사회경지발전실태를 료해하시였다) and vowed to study (귀국의 훌륭한 지식과 경험들을 많이 배우려고).

North Korea-United States Summit Rodong Sinmun Singapore News

I was further struck by just how optimistic the language the documentary’s narrator was using. The seventy years of animosity between the United States and North Korea would be “ended” (적대감을 끝장내고), a “full stop” (종지부 찍고) would be put to it, the past would be put behind and a new era in relations would begin. I had been following North Korean media for quite some time but had never seen discourse like this being used in relation to the United States before.

North Korea-United States Summit Documentary 2

I realised that I should have read the Rodong Sinmun from the day before, the one which reported on the summit, in closer detail. I had been extremely busy the past few days and had only briefly skimmed the article. I reached into the cupboard where I had put the copies of the newspaper I had bought the day before and pulled out the relevant pages. But this movement had interfered with the antennae’s extremely delicate reception and the image froze for about ten seconds. I profusely apologised to my roommate and Victor, who were still watching the television screen closely.

I looked at the article and realised it used the same language, and the exact same terms. The message was clear. Change, and conciliation. We all continued watching the documentary, amazed. It then reached the moment where Trump arrives. Majestic, stately music played in the background, and the first meeting and handshake between the two leaders was dramatic indeed.

North Korea-United States Summit Documentary 1

We all laughed when Trump awkwardly tried to shake the hand of a North Korean general who instead offered him a salute (after which he quickly switched to a salute). Victor tried to kill a fly that had got into the room which again disturbed the reception for a brief time. The documentary concluded and we were stunned into silence.

North Korea-United States Summit Documentary 3

The next day I had class. It was literary theory and we were discussing the concept of the dramatic (극적). It’s essentially when something “unexpected” happens in the story, my sprightly seventy-three-year-old teacher explained. Like when the Marshal meets the President of the United States and puts a final end to seventy years of conflict, she offered as an example. I return home and the same documentary is on TV again.

I read the Rodong Sinmun article about the summit again and noticed some interesting parts, such as the clause “although past history has bound our arms and our legs, and false prejudices and habits have obscured our eyes and our ears” (과거의 력사가 우리의 발목을 붙잡고 그릇된 편견과 관행들이 우리의 눈과 귀를 가리우기도 했지만), and more. Trump also showed intention to remove sanctions (제재를 해제할수 있다는 의향을 표명하였다), and stop the US-South Korea joint military exercises which had always created much tension with the North, it said. I glance at the other articles towards the back of the edition which featured the summit at the front. “Research into the Immortal Classic Works of the Peerless Heaven Sent Great Men is Popularised in Several Countries” (희세의 천출위인들의 불후의 고전적로작들을 여러 나라에서 연구보급), a series of murders in Japan which demonstrate the “corrupted nature of Japanese society” (일본사회의 부패상을 보여준다), an anti-corruption campaign in Africa, South Korean workers struggling to keep the minimum wage etc. Seeing these just drove home how unique the summit report was.

Later I talk with my roommate about the documentary. He said it was like watching science fiction. He seemed more optimistic now, believing that we had entered a new phase in relations between North Korea and the United States after seventy difficult years. He said he shed tears when the Marshal (Kim Jong Un) returned to Pyongyang. He is still somewhat wary however, having some knowledge of how Trump often says one thing and does another. Wait and see, he says still, but at least we can now do that with more hope than ever before.

Filed Under: From Perth to Pyongyang: An Australian Student in North Korea's Kim Il Sung University

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Edward Voet
Edward Voet
2018-08-10T06:39:33+0000
The tour was extremely well-managed and organised. Not only did we visit the significant cultural landmarks, we were... also able to develop a sense of what life is like for the average North Korean citizen. The tour guides were extremely amicable and easy to get along with, as were all other members of the tour. Alek is very friendly and a great person to have on the tour given his experience with running tours in North Korea. The positive relationship between Tongil Tours and the tour company in North Korea was very obvious. At no time were we made to feel unsafe, and the restrictions on taking photos were no more strict than in any other country (no photos in places of high security). Some highlights included the Pyongyang Circus, Kumsusan Palace of the Sun, natural sightseeing in rural areas, and visiting local schools. I highly recommend this tour for those who are looking to learn more about the history of the Korean peninsula, gain an extremely unique perspective on the situation in North Korea, and have a genuinely enjoyable cultural experience.read more
Isaac Beers
Isaac Beers
2018-05-22T11:31:10+0000
Wouldn't travel to the DPRK with anyone else. Incredibly knowledgeable and dedicated people who really care about... cultural exchange and education. We thoroughly enjoyed our 5 day tour, would have liked to have been able to stay longer.read more
Jonny Garrison
Jonny Garrison
2018-02-12T03:52:52+0000
These guys were amazing, trip of a lifetime Nikolai was such an honest cool bloke, the Korean guides were so... knowledgeable, so many of the myths were broken down, it was eye opening! Great value and being a small group we got to see things that the other larger groups couldn’t, highlights for me were definitely the palace and New Year’s Eve in the square roaming amongst thousands of locals. Being vegan as well I was a little concerned I’d just have cabbage and rice for dinner but far from it the food was so varied and amazing, I will hopefully return to do the marathon .read more
Cat Yen
Cat Yen
2018-01-20T16:40:00+0000
Alek from Tongil Tours provided an incredible trip around Seoul. It is difficult to imagine anybody with comparable... knowledge of South Korea and North Korea's history and culture, which allowed him to infuse all the historical sites we went to, natural vistas we hiked and even the food we ate with context and meaning -- it was never just a matter of visiting a palace, or a temple. Tongil Tours put together an extremely varied itinerary, ranging from tours of palaces, temples, art galleries, markets, mountain hiking, shopping and 'trend' areas, traditional communities, gardens and a variety of restaurants (all of which were either famous, historically significant or just delicious in their own right). Particularly great was Alek's deep knowledge of North Korean affairs, which allowed him to offer alternative perspectives and balance the sometimes biased information at places like museums. Moreover, Alek was extremely accommodating to my particular interests and tailored the trip accordingly (for example, by including extra trips to temples due to my particular interest in Buddhism) and was happy to revisit sites I enjoyed particularly (for example, visiting a certain local dessert vendor more than once). Alek's fluency in South Korean and his many years of residing in South Korea means that Tongil Tours can provide an unparallelled experience -- thank you Tongil Tours!read more
Bronwen Dalton
Bronwen Dalton
2017-12-09T01:04:52+0000
Gennady Yartsev
Gennady Yartsev
2017-10-12T19:33:06+0000
I visited Seoul late August 2017 and had luck of having a Tongil Tours guide expert giving me a tour around the city.... This remarkable tour included both must-see historical landmarks and authentic local specialties experiences, all being provided with in-depth commentary only a professional Korean-speaking scholar could give, including information on historical, culinary and modern popular culture backround of places visited and seen. A memorable part of my journey was visiting the Demilitarized Zone at the South-North Korean border. Being an academic expert on North-Korean studies who has visited the other side of the border much more than just once, the tour guide provided unbiased context on history of tragic division of a once united country and first-hand information about the current state of affairs, a perspective one can find hard to achieve relying on traditional tour guides available for booking at any hotel lobby. Altogether Tongil Tours made my visit extremely informative and fun at the same time, I am looking forward for my North Korea trip which I hope will happen soon.read more
Yuka  Morinaga
Yuka Morinaga
2017-08-13T14:03:12+0000
平壌だけでなく、開城・元山・咸興・海州・金剛山など各地の名所を巡りました。開城の参鶏湯と、元山のはまぐり焼きがおすすめです。平壌で人気のカフェに行ったり、現地の大学生と交流したり、リクエストに応じて旅程をアレンジできました。トンイルツアー... のガイドさんの流暢な朝鮮語と、現地の歴史・社会・文化に対する豊富な知識のおかげで、北朝鮮に対する理解を深めることができ、楽しく旅行することができました!北朝鮮現地のフレンドリーなガイドさんは、こちらのリクエストに応えるために尽力してくださったり、現地の生活のことをいろいろ教えてくださったりしました。ありがとうございました!また参加したいです。read more
Tay B.k.
Tay B.k.
2017-04-20T07:15:20+0000
Cez Krol
Cez Krol
2017-03-18T22:04:51+0000
I visited North Korea on a private tour with my friend - Agness (see our blog - etramping). Since we remember, North... Korea has been always on the top of our bucket list. As we all know, you can't get into the country without a reputable tour company, so were more than happy to let Tongil Tours guide us throughout this unique and intense experience. We decided to travel with Tongil Tours for the sake of their cause - bridging the communication gap between North Korean locals and foreigners - as well as their impressive educational background. With Tongil Tour we were able to learn more about the history and culture of North Korea while attending sites of interest as well as lectures. Our whole North Korean experience was a great balance of fun and education. During the whole trip, we were accompanied by 4 people: Joey - our American guide from Tongil Tours, Ms Hong - North Korean guide who has lived in Cuba for 7 years, Ms Oh - North Korean guide who has lived in Libya for 7 years, Mr Lee - our North Korean driver. We were very glad that they all turned out to be kind-hearted, funny and well-educated people with whom we enjoyed plenty of laughter and a lot of insights into their everyday lives and international experience they all gathered when studying and living in the DPRK and abroad. We felt like one big family towards the end of our trip. Having great guides was the best thing that could happen to us, because otherwise, it may have been very difficult to go through the experience. Special thanks to Joey for keeping us entertained and giving us the insider knowledge about everything we experienced with his funny anecdotes, fascinating stories and interesting facts about North Korea. Thanks to Tongil Tours, we had an opportunity to attend Kimchi cooking class, a local magic show, go bowling where we could get closer to locals - places and activities not every visitor is offered to see/do - and visit a portion of the North Korean DMZ. Moreover, we've visited local cafeterias (we love coffee and these guys knew that), went for an electric tram ride around Pyongyang and had plenty of fun once we got to the bar where we could try different local beers - chocolate, coffee, and rice flavoured. This trip has also turned into a real culinary experience. We were all served freshly chopped or pickled veggies, high-quality meat such as grilled duck, chicken broth, eggs, fresh fruits. We were also eating a lot of rice cakes and bread, but it was nice to have so many healthy options to choose from in each meal. One of our favourite meals in North Korea was naengmyeon, AKA cold noodles, served a large stainless-steel bowl with a tangy iced broth with pickled cucumbers, wide strips of lightly pickled radish, a boiled egg and slices of cold beef. If you are looking for a unique experience in North Korea, we highly recommend travelling with Tongil Tours. We are happy for building up this relationship and would like to travel with them in the future.read more
Travis Jeppesen
Travis Jeppesen
2017-03-13T08:35:07+0000
I was on the first language course in Pyongyang in 2016 and can highly recommend it. It definitely gave me more of an... insider's view on life in the DPRK capital than previous trips I'd taken to the country.read more
Alex Curylo
Alex Curylo
2017-03-07T00:04:21+0000
Took the train in from Beijing and plane out to Shenyang in late February 2017, visiting the Koguryo and Kaesong WHS... sites as well as the regular Pyongyang+DMZ showcase sights. Tongil did an EXCELLENT job of scheduling the visit to cover everything thoroughly, and picked wonderful guides as well. Unconditionally recommended.read more
Bill Sykes
Bill Sykes
2016-09-01T18:38:34+0000
I enjoyed a great experience when I toured the DPRK in 2016 I felt safe and secure and welcome at all times Everything... ran smoothly thanks to Tongil Tours- Peter Sukonek and local guide Miss Hong who was very on the ball ! I now have a better understanding of their perspective I hope that Korea may be reunited democratically in the future Bill Sykesread more
Alex Selth
Alex Selth
2016-08-08T13:42:24+0000
8 days in the DPRK in July 2016. I studied North Korea at university, but you can't really understand a place until you... visit. Our tour took us to four major cities and an assortment of other fascinating sites, with some of the best guides and tour management I've experienced. Alek is hugely knowledgeable and deeply experienced with the country, and went out of his way to make sure our trip was memorable, fascinating, and surprisingly tasty!read more
William Sima
William Sima
2016-07-15T01:42:48+0000
A trip to the DPRK challenges the senses and the mind, and will leave the visitor with a more informed attitude to this... country and, by implication, one's own country and worldview. On the one hand visitors will find the isolated, feudal-Stalinist dystopia they've heard and read about. You will feel something of the psychological abuse to which this odious regime subjects its people, the obscurantism and hysterics of the DPRK's official historical and political discourse, and the tragic damage that decades of isolation can wreak on the minds of even the well-educated. On the other hand there are fathomable historical reasons why North Korea is the way that it is, reasons which differ greatly from the "crazy/evil" line in our own media and public discourse. But most importantly — as is surely true of any country — there is more to the DPRK than politics. With a population of 24 million North Korea has at least one thing in common with Australia, and our one week tour confirmed for me the truth that, politics aside, human beings all share essentially the same concerns and aspirations in their lives. Tour operator Alek, a student of Korean language, history and culture, does an outstanding job in helping visitors grapple with the emotional and intellectual challenges of this country. This work begins in the weeks before departure, with Alek providing academic and more general background readings and optional lectures about the country and what to expect. Once there, you're told some quite outlandish things at museums, historic sites and places of Kim-worship; how valuable to have somebody at hand, however discreetly, to help you make sense of what you're hearing and steer you closer towards the truth. Alek's command of the language helped our group break the ice when talking to people on the street, and on the train out to Dandong, it helped lighten the atmosphere and defuse a rather tense situation with austere customs officials — I don't know what I would have done if by myself! Mandarin speakers should also note that there are similarities between the two languages and Alek, who knows both of them, can explain the Korean via the Chinese — which makes everything from place names to propaganda slogans infinitely easier to remember. But most importantly, from the beaches at Wonsan to school classrooms, hotel bars, bowling alleys and the Pyongyang metro, the language factor made it possible to engage, however fleetingly, with the Korean people, in whose country we were guests for one week. The few (western — there are many Chinese) tour groups we encountered did not have the luxury of such interpretation, on both the linguistic and cultural/historical levels, that Alek provides with Tongil Tours. In hindsight, I can't imagine what it would have been like to be at the mercy of just our Korean guides, or — much worse — of other unscrupulous tour operators who sell this country as a "weird" Other for privileged westerners to gawk at "for thrills". Considering the difficulties inherent in making it to the DPRK and the challenges the country presents, I'd advise anybody to consider Tongil Tours to get the most from their precious time there.read more
Iga Morzyńska
Iga Morzyńska
2016-05-08T16:30:55+0000
I went on a tour to North Korea in September 2015 and it was definitely a very valuable and unforgettable experience.... Alek is truly passionate about what he is doing and he definitely did a great job in making me really interested in North Korea. He is very knowledgeable and also very patient in answering any questions we had during the tour. I did not have any expectations prior going to North Korea, but I came back with a lot more knowledge and understanding of the North Korean culture and society. Thanks to our amazing tour guides, we were able to see much more than only Pyongyang. We got to visit a local school, and even participate in class and teach the kids some English songs. We were also able to visit the War museum, which for me was one of the highlights of the tour. Honestly speaking, before going to North Korea I imagined it to be a very isolated, secluded place, I was very positively surprised when it all turned out to be untrue, when we had a chance to interact with the local people during visits to the skate park or the amusement park. I would absolutely recommend it to any open-minded person who is willing to open up for new perspectives and look beyond the common convictions about the DPRK, I can guarantee you to learn a lot during the tour and come back with a rewarding new experience and point of view. I felt 100% safe and wouldn’t mind going back there again one day!read more
Airi Tsukada
Airi Tsukada
2016-04-02T02:30:36+0000
James Enderby
James Enderby
2015-07-29T06:45:02+0000
James Enderby – 5 star I went with Tongil Tours to the Democratic Peoples Republic of Korea (DPPK) in July for 7 days.... I had a fantastic time. I enjoyed the Korean food, circus, dancing and singing. Our DPPK guide Mrs Hong was excellent and spoke extremely good English as well as some Spanish. One of the best things about the trip was that we were given the opportunity to see multiple cities in the DPPK including Pyongyang, Kaesong and several others. The other thing that made the trip worth while was that unlike other tours, Tongil tours provided an Australian academic on the trip. Alek Sigley, our Australian Academic from ANU, (who is an expert in Korean studies) gave a whole new perspective on the country. He gave us the chance to ask far more question to educate us about the DPPK. Furthermore the trip provides tourists with the chance to dispel myths and prejudices about the DPPK (again largely due to the fact that Tongil Tours provides an Australian Academic on the DPPK). All in all I would rate Tongil Tours 5 stars. Jamesread more
David Pritts
David Pritts
2015-07-29T00:02:50+0000
The trip was unique and unforgettable The small group atmosphere allowed for flexibility that catered to the interests... of the individual travelers. Besides "typical" attractions such as famous monuments, etc., some less traditional (and more fun) activities were on the agenda, such as ice skating with North Korean children, going out for North Korean beers, and visiting an amusement park. I would consider going again some day. Thanks!read more
Oliver Murrell
Oliver Murrell
2015-07-21T23:29:05+0000
I went on a Tongil Tours' trip to North Korea in September 2014. It was superbly organised and the trip was an... experience I will never forget. You really get to see the many different sides (good and bad) to North Korean culture and society. As well as learning a lot, the tour was very fun and the people in the group were certainly enjoyable. The tour guides were very friendly and helpful. This is truly a country like no other, and while of course I was a little concerned about travelling to this foreboding place, Tongil Tours made us all feel safe (mostly). I would highly recommend this to anyone who is curious about the Hermit Kingdom or has an eager sense of adventure. Pricing is very reasonable too, ideal for students in particular. Would definitely go again! :Dread more
George Martin
George Martin
2015-06-29T09:29:09+0000
I went on a trip to the 14th Pyongyang International Film Festival organised by Tongil Tours in autumn 2014, and I can... honestly say that it was one of my best (and most surreal!) holidays ever. The itinerary was interesting and varied and despite being somewhat apprehensive about what the tour might entail before setting out, I felt comfortable and safe throughout the entirety of the trip. Having looked at some other tour providers I am really happy that I settled with Tongil Tours – as well as being fun, the trip was also informative and educational. I loved how a real emphasis was placed on direct interactions with ordinary North Koreans, which Tongil Tours and our guide Alek did their best to facilitate at every opportunity. Alek was a fantastic guide – from the moment he met us at the airport in Beijing to when we parted, we never had any problems he couldn't deal with and he'd bend over backwards to help us out whenever we could (including scouring Pyongyang for a cup of decent coffee!). But most importantly he really helped us put everything we were seeing into context from an educated and balanced perspective. Alek's passion for North Korea is clear, and his knowledge of North Korea's history and culture and really helped bring the country to life. His language skills made talking to people a lot easier too, although it was surprising how many young people spoke at least rudimentary English. He was by no means a government propagandist, but it was his (and the tour/company in general's) emphasis on getting beyond the voyeurism in Western media's portrayal of North Korea that really made the holiday special. Of course, we got to see our fair share of communist kitsch, but what left the most lasting impression on me was just having simple conversations with ordinary people who we're led to believe are mindless robots, something which Alek did all he could to facilitate. Although they were naturally unable to give us as an objective a view of the country, our North Korean guides were also kind and helpful (yes, they do always follow you around, but once you get used to the idea that that's just the way it is and just get along with them then it doesn't feel intrusive). They were almost as keen to learn about the West as we were about North Korea, and by the end they felt like friends. Sharing a dirty joke with our guide Jong is something that will stay with me for a long time! Overall, I would highly recommend Tongil Tours to anyone thinking of visiting North Korea who wants to get that extra something out of their trip!read more

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